Model A Clutch

Clutch Lining – Grease on the clutch lining is almost impossible to get out, there really isn’t a good cleaner available to remove it.  If grease becomes badly embedded, it is most advisable to replace the lining  A short term, emergency cure is to plug the opening in the bottom of the housing and pour in a gallon of hot water and detergent; idle the engine for two minutes with the clutch disengaged and then drain.

Clutch Chatter – If grease is allowed to get on the friction facings of the clutch it will begin to chatter during engagement and sometimes slip at high speeds.  To remedy this, remove the clutch and install a new set of clutch disc facings.  Also check the rear motor mounts for looseness if the clutch chatters.  Motor mounts should be uniformly tight.

Clutch Wear – Two indications of clutch wear are:  Engine races, but the car does not pick up speed and the clutch pedal adjustment has been used up.  Premature clutch wear may be due to:  Riding the clutch, lack of pedal travel clearance, racing the engine, and slipping the clutch when starting.

Pedal Movement – The correct free-play for the clutch pedal is approximately ¾” for the early multiple disc clutch and one inch for the single disc clutch.  This is the movement which takes place before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch.  (See page 464 in the Service Bulletins.)

Adjusting the Clutch Pedal – The clutch pedal clearance can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the release arm rod.  This is accomplished by removing the cotter pin from the clevis pin, then removing the clevis pin; this allows the adjusting rod to be turned.  Turning the rod OUT increases the movement of the clutch pedal, screwing the rod IN decreases the movement. (See page 218 in the Service Bulletins.)

This tech tip was originally printed in the Jan/Feb. 2001 “A” Quail Call.

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